Winter takes its assignment, and the the streets are already decorated. I would like to take a step back, and share my experiences from Chinon in autumn.
After visiting Château du Rivau, I was thrilled to explore this beautiful and elegant town, which unfolds an impressive cultural heritage.
It was the end of October, and autumn embraced it delicately.
When I arrived, my first impression was the sober elegance of this town, with the paved roads and the ancient houses -the enormous square- Joan of Arc's square with the majestic sculpture of the legendary heroine on its horse.
I heard the saying, ' wherever there is a river in a city, there is a soul". The river Vienne that flows in Chinon gives it a special aura. The large river and the surrounding of the vineyards make it particularly rich on many levels.
I arrived for the festival celebrations called" Nourritures Elemantaires" -"essential food" that occurs every automne.
It is, of course, the food that combines the spirit of literature and art with savory French cuisine, such as wine and other excellent local products of the Loire.
But it is mainly to celebrate Rabelais.
The heart of Chinon is Rabelais, a notorious author from the Renaissances. Rabelais wrote about a giant name's Gargantua, and the Giant is a symbol of his writings. It also shaped the character of Chinon. The inhabitants are proud of the famous writer who was born in Chinon. The sculpture of Rabelais by the River's bank reminds the viewer of the historical personality, that means so much to the citizens of Chinon.
Max Ernest's house and workshop
The festival touches various facades of Chinon. It was fascinating to discover how diverse it is, from Rabelais to the German Jewish painter Max Ernest.
He was based for a few years on the outskirts of Chinon- in Huisme, with his companion Dorothée, Tanning.
Dominique Marchais, a French artist, bought the house in 2009. It contains the workshop where Max painted and sculpted, in a most original way. His style was surrealist but also grounded. It was also the house where he lived. It has a captivating, wild garden.
While visiting the place, I was impressed by the authentic and surprising artworks in the house.
Museum Veron
After a short ride, we reached Savigny- en Veron and visited the museum Veron, which will immerse you in other artworks from different continents around the globe.
The thinker of Rodin is in the center of the room, and Max Ernst's frog is on the other side.
The exhibitions embrace the beauty of the art in its different moods and creativity. Various sculptures and utensils placed together create harmony for the viewer.
In Chinon flows the river Vienne- but it is also a river of wine. I have tasted different kinds of wine. As the French say, they all possessed "Je ne sais pas quoi," a secret that made them so tasty and full of flavours. The reason is that the conditions in the region of La Loire are perfect for the cultivating the grapes
One of the caves of wine where we tasted these delicious wines is Cabane a Vin.
I tasted for the first time a local pastry is also famous in the region- la fouace. A bun with nuts, and other spices, that is delicious and goes along with the wine.
la Devinière- Rabelais House
The giant of literature
He was not only a writer but a real personality of the Renaissance- a priest, a doctor, a philosopher, and an author who wrote about the adventures of the giant Gargantua. He represents Chinon and is its trademark.
He even invented words that became a part of the French vocabulary.
Visiting the Devinière in Seuilly - the house where he grew up and wrote his masterpiece, will tell you not only about Rabelais background and the region: inspiration, influences, and art.
You will walk on the path of his "world." The myth of the giant which is presented in various artworks
The house is surrounded by natural and wild gardens that inspire us to return to that period.
As it was the festival, we enjoyed a spectacular tour with two dressed guides from that period of time.
At night, we celebrated in the Caves Painctes located in Chinon.
It is a temple of wine, a historical place where the father of Rabelais, himself- François Rabelais, held a cave where he conserved his wine.
We had a gastronomic dinner with lots of special quality wine, met a few winemakers from the region and had an interesting conversation with them, enjoyed a live concert and danced.
To get inspired in Chinon
Chinon looks like a preserved open- air museum from the Middle- Ages. It starts with the Royal fortress, which dominates the city. It is a must to go and visit it.
You have an overview of Chinon and the River Vienne from different angles. Joan of Arc stayed there, where she met for the first time the King François the 7.
I loved walking in the narrow lanes with the half-timbered houses and sensing the smell of wood.
Not just a museum, but Chinon has exceptional restaurants and wine bars; we ate in a lovely restaurant Osiris.
As a "hunter" of the best coffee shops in town, I found the cozy and fabulous coffee shop I recommend. Coucou Café
The end of Automne, and the darkness falls early.
The walking by the bank of the river was relaxing and exhilarating.
I enjoyed watching the lights falling over the water, as suddenly I bumped into the sculpture of Rabelais.
The way the light slipped on the statue's features, and its expression seemed all of a sudden of a Chinese philosopher.
As if his enigmatic expression makes you wonder what secrets does he keep inside.
I liked so much Chinon that I was happy to be again in the region, pop by and visit a friend living on the height of Chinon,
Strolling at night in the decorated city for Christmas in the beginning of December was an enchanting experience, drinking a red wine of the Loire, can't get more magical than that.
Article and images = Niva Josef
Recommendation
The hotel Diderot which was nearby Joan of Arc square, was a cozy, comfortable hotel that is imbued with the Middle Ages atmosphere, to take the host in the authentic experience of Chinon.
Fantastic,such a talanted writer and photographer!!!
Merci, super destination, et jolie écriture et images.
As always, I enjoy very much reading your reviews. Thank you